Gutters and Grade: Two Things I Tell Every Client

Foundation repairs can be expensive. But you can avoid expensive repairs in the future by performing some simple maintenance today. This maintenance is often easy enough to do yourself and is relatively inexpensive—sometimes even free. Read on to learn about the two foundation maintenance tips I give to every client.

Gutters and grade. Cleaning your gutters and maintaining a proper grade around your foundation are two of the most important things you can do to protect the structural integrity of your home’s foundation. So important, in fact, that I address these two items in nearly every foundation inspection that I perform. In this article, we will first explore why gutters and grade are so important (hint: water mitigation), and then we will review some practical tips for maintaining each of these aspects of your home.

Water and Your Foundation

Expansive clay soil is common throughout the Kansas City metro area.  This type of soil expands when it gets wet and shrinks when it dries.  It’s similar to what you see in your kitchen when you combine dry rice with boiling water—one cup of dry rice turns into three cups of cooked rice.  This expansion is nice for cooking fluffy rice, but when we’re talking about the soil around your foundation, this expansion can be problematic. 

As the wet soil around your foundation expands, the soil presses up against your foundation walls.  This force can be strong enough to push your foundation walls inward, resulting in “lateral movement.”  Similarly, as the wet soil beneath your foundation expands, it can heave the foundation upward, resulting in “vertical movement.”  If movement is significant, you may need to make foundation repairs, which could include braces, or even straightening or replacing walls.  These repairs can be expensive.  (Although not the focus of this article, the shrinking of the soil in very dry conditions can also cause structural problems, which is why watering around your foundation during times of drought is important.  But we’ll save that topic for another article.)

In addition to soil expansion, water around your foundation can be problematic for other reasons.  For example, excessive water near your foundation can erode soil overtime.  As soil erodes around your foundation, you may experience settlement.  Excessive settlement can necessitate costly repairs.  Additionally, pooling water around your foundation increases the likelihood of water intrusion, or, in other words, a wet basement.  No one wants that.

Now that we’ve covered the damage that can result from water pooling around your home, let’s talk about two easy ways to prevent that from happening: gutters and grade.

Gutters (and Downspouts)

When it rains, your gutters collect water from your roof and direct the water to downspouts, which then carry the water away from your home’s foundation.  If the gutters or downspouts are not doing their jobs, then water may pool near your home and cause the foundation damage described above.

The best way to determine whether you have a gutter or downspout problem is to walk around your home in the pouring rain.  Seriously.  Next time we get a heavy rainstorm, head outside and inspect your gutters and downspouts.  If you see waterfalls spilling over your gutters, or water leaking behind the gutters or near the end caps, those are problem areas.

Often, a gutter overflow means your gutter and/or downspout is clogged.  The fix may be as simple as removing accumulated leaves or other debris.  You may be able to remove the clog, yourself (after the rain has stopped, of course), or you can outsource the job to a professional.  Then maintain a regular cleaning schedule so that you don’t run into another overflow situation.  You should inspect and clean your gutters at least twice per year (in the spring and fall), or more if you have trees near your roof.

A leaky or overflowing gutter could also indicate a bigger problem.  Your gutter may be damaged or sagging, or your end caps may be leaking.  Or you may have a large area of roof draining to an undersized gutter.  These problems may be more expensive to fix than a simple clog, but the investment could save you from costly foundation repairs in the future.

During your walk in the rain, pay attention to your downspouts, too. Where does the water go? The water should be discharged at least six feet away from the foundation. This can be accomplished using downspout extensions, splash blocks, or other drainage products. When the water is discharged, it should continue flowing away from the foundation (more on that topic below).

Grade

When we talk about “grade,” we’re talking about the slope of the soil around your foundation.  A “positive grade” means the soil slopes away from your home, directing water away from your foundation, which is good.  A “negative grade” means the soil slopes toward your home, directing water toward your foundation, which is bad.  Said another way, when you put a basketball near your house, does it roll away?  If so, you have positive grade at that point (good).  If the ball rolls toward your house, you have negative grade at that point (bad).

That concept is easy enough, but how do you know whether you have positive grade or negative grade around your entire foundation?  The basketball test is a nice illustration, but it doesn’t capture every point.  The solution: Get out in the rain.  In addition to inspecting your gutters and downspouts during the next rainstorm, pay attention to the ground around your foundation, too.  If water is pooling in certain areas, that’s a good indication that you need to improve your grade.

Sometimes, you can improve your grade simply by adding soil around your foundation.  As you add soil, be sure to leave at least 6 inches between the top of the soil and the bottom of any siding (to avoid wood rot and insect damage).  Your grade should be at least 1” of fall for each foot from your foundation wall, extending for at least 6’ from your foundation wall.  In other words, the soil should continuously slope away from your foundation, with a total drop at least 6” over a distance of 6’.  Hard surfaces should fall at least 1” per 4’ from your foundation wall (water flows more easily on hard surfaces, so the slope need not be as steep).

In some instances, soil cannot be added. This may be true if your house sits at a low point on your lot. If soil cannot be added, a swale or French drain can be installed. These jobs are more likely to require professional installation.

Conclusion

Hopefully you are now inspired to clean out those gutters and downspouts and to check the grade around your home’s foundation! For additional tips with pictures, check out another post we have written on this topic. If you have specific questions or would like guidance tailored to your home, or if you just don’t feel like inspecting your house in the pouring rain, Schroeder Engineering is here to help. Contact us today for a foundation inspection that includes a customized water mitigation plan.